Sunday, December 27, 2015

Surfing Kauai

Hanalei bay. There is a break way out there. 

 We have had a great week here in Kauai with hardly a minute sitting still (unless we're sleeping in, going to bed early or sleeping on the beach). It has been nice to get away from the stress of real life and just enjoy each other. 

I'll do my best to back post about our fun on the Kalalau trail and all the prep that entailed but I don't have the time for it this morning. Today we are going to church here with our friends, the Hanks, and then we'll spend the rest of the day exploring the south side of the island up to Waimea and Polihale. 

Today I wanted to reassure ya'll that I am keeping up on my surfing while here. I think I have hit the 300 day mark but I'm not sure, I left my surfing calendar at home and forgot to check it before leaving. 

The first day we were here we surfed at a break in Poipu right out from the Marriot. The waves were big and the wind and current was strong. It was not a great introduction to the spot. It took a while to get my three waves there because the conditions were so wonky and because I was using a borrowed board that I wasn't used to. I was glad to have Dave and Austin and Nathan and Kirkham and Tristan out surfing with me. Kirkham ended up on the rocks though and didn't come back out. Fortunately he avoided injury. 

The next day, Saturday, Dave and I tested out a spot a couple hotels down at the Sheraton. The swell was bigger and conditions rotten so we had to surf in a protected spot. This was too protected. We got our waves but we won't go back to this spot again. It would be great for teaching little kids to surf. 

Since we've been back from our Kalalau hike we have surfed two days at that same break by the Marriot so we're starting to get the hang of how that wave works. I had a really fun day out there on Christmas Day when I surfed it with just Dave and Nathan Hanks. Everyone else stayed home to "rest" (play video games).  Dave's surf session was ended abruptly by a wipeout into the rocks where he cut up his hand and chipped out a chunk of his borrowed board. Bummer. 

Yesterday, Saturday again, we drove around to the North shore and surfed Hanalei Bay. It was a hefty paddle out and very hard to even tell if it was breaking from the shore. We were rewarded for our faith with great waist to head high waves that were easy to surf and provided long rides. I surfed for a few hours and then slept on the beach for a few hours. The kids alternately surfed, kayaked, jumped off the pier and played in the sand. 

We are having a great time. 
Nathan and Cora kayaking

Afton, Austin, Nathan and Cora jumping off the Hanalei pier. 

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