Wednesday, November 09, 2011

This morning

Most Wednesday mornings Dave and I go out surfing together. Today we went to Turtle Bay.  I was pretty tired from my early morning HIIT workout and Dave was pretty tired from surfing dawn patrol at Velzyland with one of his buddies.  And so we were both glad that the waves were smallish.

We took turns today.  First I surfed while Dave took pictures and then Dave surfed while I took pictures. Finally I have proof that I can surf.  Here's the evidence:

Just paddled into this wave and beginning my pop-up to standing position.

Having a little trouble staying balanced it takes me a little too long still to get into full upright position.
I'm up! And I've got a little nervous smile on my face.

This was a long ride and I'm passing Dave on the rocks now as the white water catches back up with me. I am attempting to turn the board but I'm not very good at it yet.

Still going! That was a great ride.
And here's some proof of how tough I am-- letting the wave catch me. I didn't stand up fast enough and the nose of my board went under, I "pearled" or "went pearl diving".
 Ouch! This is just a second after the previous picture. On this fall I actually felt myself hit the water, get lifted up into the wave and then get slammed back down into the water.  Needless to say, I've had sea water dripping from my nose most of the day.
 No further evidence is really required to prove that Dave can surf. You've seen pics of him surfing before.  But he did want a fair and balanced report on today's surfing so here are some pictures of him.
He makes it look so easy.

Time and again he can catch the waves and ride them forever.

Now he's showing off his drop-in, showing me how it's done . . .

 how to pop up quickly . . .

how to keep the rail in and ride across the wave instead of in the white water . . . 

and how to cut and turn. 

He makes me sick. 

2 comments:

  1. Way to go surfing mama!
    I laughed out loud at the final words of this post, "He makes me sick.", classic. You will be there in no time!
    Beachgirl!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Well, you're WAY ahead of me in the surfing game! I think you look GREAT!!! Keep it up and you'll be the queen in no time :)

    ReplyDelete

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