Early mornings seem to be the best time to get in a few rides without feeling too crowded. Dave and Heath hit the beach early every Saturday morning, a different beach each week. This past week was Turtle Bay and the waves were reportedly the biggest waves they've surfed thus far. They are practicing dropping in and turning, both lefts and rights.
Afton and Cora are a doing a phenomenal job honing their surfing skills. Dave started them out by pushing them into the beach break. Then they began starting themselves into the beach break. Last week, Monday, Dave took them each out into deeper water off of Malekahana point by Goats Island. He pushed them into these waves. Because they weren't surfing into the beach I sat out on a boogie board to "catch" Cora at the end of the ride and help her turn and paddle back. Afton didn't need the help so I took some pics from the beach. Monday night Afton paddled out again into the deep water at Castles. She is determined and having so much fun.
Though Kirkham has caught a few waves he generally prefers the beach break and boogie boarding. That may change once mom shows him up. He still has some time before that will happen but he better watch out! I have continued to paddle out and sit in the waves. I haven't tried to stand up yet but have caught a few on my stomach. My goal is to be a decent surfer before the end of December. Decent means that I can stand up, control where I'm going, and not embarrass my family.
On Wednesday's Dave doesn't go into work until about 1 because he stays in the office meeting with students until 10pm. He uses these mornings for surfing. So yesterday,Wednesday morning, Dave took me out to Chuns hoping to find some waves I'd feel comfortable standing up on. There were a lot of waves. Too many. I had a hard time paddling out. I got thrown around by a few waves and I hit the bottom a time or two and got washed across a few rocks. I walked out of the water with a few bumps, bruises and scrapes. (Nothing serious mom) Dave apologized and tried to console me saying that the waves were stronger than he expected. He made it up to me by taking me into Haleiwa for a Matsumotos shave ice before heading back to Laie for work. The kids thought my minor injuries were cool when they got home from school.